Thursday, September 29, 2016

Bangladeshi Star Wars



Terror attacks, earthquakes, demonstrations, suffocating traffic, extreme poverty, incredible wealth, misery, happiness, corruption, hope, despair.
Plus many other things.
Over 400 days down - who counts - some 300 to go - who counts.


Suddenly I am a senior in Dhaka. Now I have a faint idea of directions, places and people. I can tell where to get a haircut, what to wear, who to tip, what to eat and what not.
Still, every day in Dhaka is a big surprise - inspiring but also exhausting.


During the first year here I have become an expert in protecting myself. Due to the circumstances.
The day starts with brushing my teeth with filtered water to avoid diarrhea. This is worth mentioning since exactly today I have spent most of the day close to the bathroom.
The Dhaka water quality not only eats one´s inner organs but also hair. I have lost half  of my hair and will probably be totally bald when we move from Bangladesh.
Next: one lotion to protect the skin against the sun, another against mosquitoes.
All-body-covering clothes against stares and giggling. This never works, my wrinkled facial skin is a major attraction anyway.


At home we have two metal coffins full of equipment in case of an earthquake. Plus a satellite phone.
Seven locks, iron bars, armed guards before entering a car with tinted glasses for transport. 
Metal detectors at the entrance of the grocery store. Bullet proof windows. Armored cars. No-stay at the rooftop terrace because of potential snipers.
The list gets longer and longer, more and more advanced daily.
The security measures in Dhaka have become a kind of star wars between  embassies, organizations and companies. The bigger the guns, the safer the lives of the employees.

Maybe.
The security measures rule out the bad but also the good.
This is what the terrorists want: deprive people of their normal life, suffocate them with security and isolation, finish with insanity.
My private "counter terrorism" consists of small walks where I can observe the wild, crazy, inspiring life in Dhaka. 


Today´s pictures show how sewer renovation is done in this city. Talk of stamina, muscle power and low tech.


Tens of thounsand of (mostly) men have dreams of making a fortune in the Gulf states as foreign workers. They line up for hours for a medical attest in the heat or heavy rain or both.  


Often they have to borrow at least two years` salary for the paperwork and travel costs before they can earn any money.  Many never manage to pay their debts and end up working as badly treated slaves.
Every year half a million leave Bangladesh for a job in the neighboring countries. Manpower is number two export source after the garment industry.

Time for a little break from Dhaka, back in November.

No comments:

Post a Comment